Sum up

Sri Lanka’s west coast covers the coastal belt just south of Colombo all the way down to Hikkaduwa. From that point on, Red Dot prefers to refer to the Galle coast, which is increasingly influenced by the famous old fortress town. The west coast has a long-standing tourist tradition and offers broad tropical beaches for a mix of independent and package-tour travellers in small towns such Beruwela, Bentota, Ambalangoda, Ahungalla and Hikkaduwa.

Weather

With the west coast’s weather governed by the south-western monsoon, the best weather is expected between late November and April. Average temperatures rarely drop much below 30C. Sri Lanka is affected by two separate monsoons. Essentially the main south-west (“yala”) monsoon brings rain to the west coast, as well as south-west coasts and hill country, between May and late July. August is often a good month. The west coast is not affected by the less severe north-east (“maha”) monsoon which hits the east from November to January. There is also an unsettled inter-monsoonal period in October.

Highlights

• Great sunbathing at excellent-value tropical hotels
• Water skiing in Bentota
• Dancing the night away in Hikkaduwa
• Stroll through Bevis Bawa’s Brief gardens
• Kosgoda’s marine turtles
• Boat ride down mangrove-filled rivers

Getting There

Little more than an hour south of central Colombo, as you cross the Kalu Ganga Bridge, Sri Lanka’s West Coast really begins. From this point on all the way to Galle, the tiny main coastal road, known as the Galle Road, hugs the picturesque coast line and runs parallel to the rickety old railway which limps all the way to Matara. The west coast motorway also offers fast access from the airport or Colombo

Ariyapala Mask Museum

Ambalangoda is where the mask carvers and puppet makers predominate. The Ariyapala Mask Museum exhibits traditional Kolam and Thovil masks some of which are rare and date back centuries.

Bentota

Bentota is blessed by the lazy waters of the Bentota River, ideal for watersports and boat trips. Its broad sandy beach with gently-shelving sands offers safe swimming, making it one of the most appealing Sri Lankan destinations for a traditional family holiday with a choice of excellent accommodation in all categories.

Hikkaduwa

The characterful town of Hikkaduwa attracts budget and independent travellers, and generally a younger crowd. Its simple but decent restaurants, beach bars, and beachside nightclubs gives it something of the mood of a resort in Goa or Bali. The best surfing spots in Hikkaduwa are in Wewala. Narigama is good for body surfing. Surf boards, gear, and even clothing can be sourced from Hikkaduwa.

Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery

Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery plays a vital protective role for the turtles that lay their eggs on the beach annually, and is well worth a visit. The conservation project is an ideal way to learn and observe this endangered species.

Kalu Ganga

The Kalu Ganga begins its journey to the sea on the western slopes of Adams Peak, Sri Lanka’s holy mountain. The divine waters flow slowly west, its banks lined with jungle, rubber plantations and communities using the river in their daily lives. Exploring the backwaters by canoe or boat – a haven for birdlife – is magical.

Lunuganga

Lunuganga: Set on the edge of Lake Dedduwa, Lunuganga is a Renaissance-inspired tropical garden and plantation house, which was the former country residence of Geoffrey Bawa. Step inside the private life of the man dubbed “the father of Asian architecture.” The Lunuganga gardens have numerous plants, pavilions, and statues. Its exquisite bedrooms and suites are offered to guest for just four months of the year from December to April. For the rest of the year it is handed back to the Bawa Trust and is used as an artist’s retreat. For a similar outing, consider Brief Gardens – a 25-acre estate which was the lifelong work of the celebrated landscape artist Bevis Bawa.

Richmond Castle

Explore Kalutara’s colonial past with a visit to the Richmond Castle, an old spice-plantation mansion which can be reached by canoe down the old Dutch canals.

History

The Galapatha Viharaya Buddhist temple in Bentota is one of the five ancient temples in the Galleprovince. It provides evidence that there was a human settlement in Bentota as early as the 2nd century BC.

The Kalutara Bodhiya is an ancient Bo tree which was identified as one of the 32 saplings of the original Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi planted during the reign of king Devanampiyatissa in Anuradhapura in the same period.

Kalutara, named after the Kalu Ganga (Black River) that winds through this town, was an important spice trading centre during colonial times. First the Portuguese in the 17C century, followed by the Dutch, were enticed by the cinnamon estates in the area and built a network of canals to transport these spices. During the 19C, the British converted these spice estates into rubber plantations which remain.

The west coast’s traditional beach hotels first began to spring up in the 1960s, and have become a significant factor in the island’s economy.

Malli’s Seafood Restaurant

This well-established restaurant has long been popular due to its arty brickwork walls, relaxing atmosphere and mouth-watering fresh seafood dishes (opposite EKHO Surf hotel, Beach Road, Bentota 80500, 0778 514 894)

Happy Garden Restaurant

Happy Garden Restaurant – a charming, intimate restaurant with a laidback atmosphere and views of the railway line and ocean beyond. Happy Garden’s grilled seafood, traditional rice and curry and fresh tropical fruit are highly praised by all who dine there (Beach Road, Bentota 80500, 0777 047 689)

Amal Villa Restaurant & Bar

Amal Villa Restaurant & Bar – has a lively atmosphere, pleasant décor and the choice of indoor or outdoor dining. A highlight of your experience here is hand-picking your seafood (135 Galle Road, Bentota 80500, 0779 793 471)

Rock Villa

Rock Villa – an idyllic garden setting and exquisite food, a meal here is worth the slightly higher price tag (Nileesgewatte Road, Bentota 80500, 0112 340 033)