West-Coast
Sum up
Sri Lanka’s west coast covers the coastal belt just south of Colombo all the way down to Hikkaduwa. From that point on, Red Dot prefers to refer to the Galle coast, which is increasingly influenced by the famous old fortress town. The west coast has a long-standing tourist tradition and offers broad tropical beaches for a mix of independent and package-tour travellers in small towns such Beruwela, Bentota, Ambalangoda, Ahungalla and Hikkaduwa.
Weather
With the west coast’s weather governed by the south-western monsoon, the best weather is expected between late November and April. Average temperatures rarely drop much below 30C. Sri Lanka is affected by two separate monsoons. Essentially the main south-west (“yala”) monsoon brings rain to the west coast, as well as south-west coasts and hill country, between May and late July. August is often a good month. The west coast is not affected by the less severe north-east (“maha”) monsoon which hits the east from November to January. There is also an unsettled inter-monsoonal period in October.
Highlights
- Great sunbathing at excellent-value tropical hotels
- Water skiing in Bentota
- Dancing the night away in Hikkaduwa
- Stroll through Bevis Bawa’s Brief gardens
- Kosgoda’s marine turtles
- Boat ride down mangrove-filled rivers
Getting There
Little more than an hour south of central Colombo, as you cross the Kalu Ganga Bridge, Sri Lanka’s West Coast really begins. From this point on all the way to Galle, the tiny main coastal road, known as the Galle Road, hugs the picturesque coast line and runs parallel to the rickety old railway which limps all the way to Matara. The west coast motorway also offers fast access from the airport or Colombo
Ariyapala Mask Museum
Ambalangoda is where the mask carvers and puppet makers predominate. The Ariyapala Mask Museum exhibits traditional Kolam and Thovil masks some of which are rare and date back centuries.
Bentota
Bentota is blessed by the lazy waters of the Bentota River, ideal for watersports and boat trips. Its broad sandy beach with gently-shelving sands offers safe swimming, making it one of the most appealing Sri Lankan destinations for a traditional family holiday with a choice of excellent accommodation in all categories.
Hikkaduwa
The characterful town of Hikkaduwa attracts budget and independent travellers, and generally a younger crowd. Its simple but decent restaurants, beach bars, and beachside nightclubs gives it something of the mood of a resort in Goa or Bali. The best surfing spots in Hikkaduwa are in Wewala. Narigama is good for body surfing. Surf boards, gear, and even clothing can be sourced from Hikkaduwa.
Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery
Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery plays a vital protective role for the turtles that lay their eggs on the beach annually, and is well worth a visit. The conservation project is an ideal way to learn and observe this endangered species.
Kalu Ganga
The Kalu Ganga begins its journey to the sea on the western slopes of Adams Peak, Sri Lanka’s holy mountain. The divine waters flow slowly west, its banks lined with jungle, rubber plantations and communities using the river in their daily lives. Exploring the backwaters by canoe or boat – a haven for birdlife – is magical.
Lunuganga
Lunuganga: Set on the edge of Lake Dedduwa, Lunuganga is a Renaissance-inspired tropical garden and plantation house, which was the former country residence of Geoffrey Bawa. Step inside the private life of the man dubbed “the father of Asian architecture.” The Lunuganga gardens have numerous plants, pavilions, and statues. Its exquisite bedrooms and suites are offered to guest for just four months of the year from December to April. For the rest of the year it is handed back to the Bawa Trust and is used as an artist’s retreat. For a similar outing, consider Brief Gardens – a 25-acre estate which was the lifelong work of the celebrated landscape artist Bevis Bawa.
Richmond Castle
Explore Kalutara’s colonial past with a visit to the Richmond Castle, an old spice-plantation mansion which can be reached by canoe down the old Dutch canals.
History
The Galapatha Viharaya Buddhist temple in Bentota is one of the five ancient temples in the Galleprovince. It provides evidence that there was a human settlement in Bentota as early as the 2nd century BC.
The Kalutara Bodhiya is an ancient Bo tree which was identified as one of the 32 saplings of the original Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi planted during the reign of king Devanampiyatissa in Anuradhapura in the same period.
Kalutara, named after the Kalu Ganga (Black River) that winds through this town, was an important spice trading centre during colonial times. First the Portuguese in the 17C century, followed by the Dutch, were enticed by the cinnamon estates in the area and built a network of canals to transport these spices. During the 19C, the British converted these spice estates into rubber plantations which remain.
The west coast’s traditional beach hotels first began to spring up in the 1960s, and have become a significant factor in the island’s economy.
Malli’s Seafood Restaurant
This well-established restaurant has long been popular due to its arty brickwork walls, relaxing atmosphere and mouth-watering fresh seafood dishes (opposite EKHO Surf hotel, Beach Road, Bentota 80500, 0778 514 894)
Happy Garden Restaurant
Happy Garden Restaurant – a charming, intimate restaurant with a laidback atmosphere and views of the railway line and ocean beyond. Happy Garden’s grilled seafood, traditional rice and curry and fresh tropical fruit are highly praised by all who dine there (Beach Road, Bentota 80500, 0777 047 689)
Amal Villa Restaurant & Bar
Amal Villa Restaurant & Bar – has a lively atmosphere, pleasant décor and the choice of indoor or outdoor dining. A highlight of your experience here is hand-picking your seafood (135 Galle Road, Bentota 80500, 0779 793 471)
Rock Villa
Rock Villa – an idyllic garden setting and exquisite food, a meal here is worth the slightly higher price tag (Nileesgewatte Road, Bentota 80500, 0112 340 033)
Snapshot
Colombo is in an exciting phase in its history. There is a sense of renewed ambition now that peace has been restored to Sri Lanka, but it remains a compact, manageable coastal city offering excellent value and an atmosphere all of its own. Ancestral mansions stand side-by-side with modern hotels springing up into the skyline. Street bazaars buzz right next to a few modest shopping malls. While some roads are clogged with vehicles, there remain many sleepy tree-lined boulevards. Colombo might be mildly chaotic at times but it has at its heart a relaxed and genial air.
Weather
Sri Lanka is affected by two separate monsoons which generally means that there is usually good weather somewhere on the island. Global warming has made weather patterns less reliable, but essentially the main south-west (“yala”) monsoon brings rain to the west (including Colombo) and south-west coasts and hill country largely between May and July. The less severe north-east (“maha”) monsoon hits the east coast – including the cultural triangle – predominantly from November to January. There is also an inter-monsoonal period of unsettled weather preceding the Maha monsoon in October during which heavy rainfall can occur anywhere across the island, Colombo very much included.
Art Galleries
Permanent collections & temporary art exhibits of Sri Lankan artists are held regularlyat the National Art Gallery, Sapumal Foundation, the Lionel Wendt, Barefoot Art Gallery and ParadiseRoad Gallery Café.
History
Colombo is the commercial capital of Sri Lanka and lies alongside the present administrative capital, Sri Jayawardenepura, Kotte. Colombo’s port was influential as early as the 5 th century when ships from Rome, Arabia, and China traded with Sinhalese kings for food supplies, spices and jewels. Many nations fought for the island’s treasures including Arab settlers in the 8C, followed by the Portuguese, the Dutch and, finally, the British who captured Colombo in 1796. This era of western domination ended peacefully with independence in 1948, followed by a separatist war fought by the LTTE (Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam) that lasted 25 years. Terrorism was eradicated in 2009, bringing hopes of a lasting peace. Throughout it all, the city of Colombo remained relatively stable and, as well as the majority Sinhalese, Moors, Tamils, Burghers, Chinese, and Malay populations contribute towards its colourful fabric.
Food in Colombo
Food is a highlight of Colombo. The city boasts a wide range of fantastic cafés and restaurants serving cuisine from around the world, whilst smaller eateries serve local hawker-style favourites like string hoppers, lamprais and biryani, as well as spicy pastries including Chinese rolls, seeni-sambol buns and fish patties which are collectively known as short-eats. Some of the best street food is foundon the seafront at Galle Face Green, including delicious koththu roti and isso wade (prawn dumplings).
For a more in-depth experience of local fare, go on our Colombo Street Food Walk.
For a selection of our favourite cafés, bars and restaurants in Colombo, see our Colombo Restaurants Guide. Further recommendations can be found in our comprehensive Booking Information.
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